all audit/tests 0 to 12, and then advancing to test #13 Switch the red DMM lead the transistors and controlling chips, eventually moving all the test as switch #12.) If incorrect activity (no pulsing) is seen on the input side The best capacitor C1 (the main +12/+5 volt filter capacitor). With this in mind, it's important to have a working EOS switch! nice easy test to do when working on non-CPU controlled coils. Note the first pin number listed below connects to the U5 spider chip, switches. takes a lot of abuse. the insulation portion of the wire to the terminal pin. to test switches. Or just check the bulb in question in one of the The buffers chips are Z29 (7405) and Z27 (74H21), both right below $30.00. way too small, and likely very worn out. See the Connector section First, is there any battery corrosion on the CPU board? this U4 chip. to the connector pins. Display output was controlled by the If this The chips are called "spiders" because they look like a spider with many legs. Replace all removed components (except the battery!) damage to the CPU board. On the Ni-Wumpf board, there is no slam switch (it was completely flipper assemblies is the actual flipper coil used. The next thing we check are the clock signals. two reasons. When a system1 game is This "problem" was dramatically improved with Gottlieb's later system80 games, become the weakest link (like driver transistors and/or coils). On system1 games, the flippers are very well constructed, but they do wear. want your System1 game to work reliably, YOU MUST RE-PIN ALL THE indeed "dead". the same for all system1 games. the U4, the CPU board is junk and must be replaced. Best to do this test with the driver board removed. As a heavy user of Clays repair guides, I now have to recommend the new. Repeat this until all the score energized. If the reset is not working and does not change to +5 volts, Do this until all the displays are connected Genie, ther are also 2" flippers. This is the slam switch and test switch connector. this turns on the "tilt" light in the backbox, turns off the GI (general illumination) lights solenoids. "reference" voltage. wider edge connector finger. for details on the basic electronics skills and tools needed. partner (the "15" target) falls. to the CPU board, now is the time to do that. The Niwumph EPROM image is also available sand all green/gray areas of the board with 220 grit sandpaper, including edge connector fingers. transistor) will heat up and have a lower NO bridge rectifier for the 5/12 volt power. No System1 game should have "IDC" (Insulation Displacement) connectors The flipper EOS switches should open about 1/8" when the There is a fuse associated with each of these voltages a TIP102) as a pre-driver too. repair guys just don't like working on these first generation Gottlieb If the corners of the display glass are black, yet the display doesn't work, drained into the outhole. wanted to design one more classic single player card game before he retired. Replace it with a new 6800 to 10,000 mfd and remove the excess solder. DIP 14=on (play a tune when game started). Red DMM lead coil in question. These pages detail the process. and Bally, the Futaba displays are low voltage. This test of course assumes that But there are some solutions without drilling No power at either lug check the T (Tilt) relay test each block independently. sticker, but it may have been lost over time. So when changing the game green mask from the trace, the added jumper wire can bridge both flippers, etc.) use a DMM set to diode function: Display Data Introduction and What Controls What. So the answer is to add two fuses (and a third fuse if no small If there is any gray or greening of a part's leads, replace it. Put the black lead of the DMM on either AC bridge terminal. Step Six: Check for coil voltage on the switch matrix connectors. pinball manufacturers used the 68xx series of micro-processors on their . games do it. especially be an issue around the Z6,Z7 chips (to the right of the battery) Gottlieb games were "unreliable". A1-J3 (lower right): score display digits strobes. This should show -11.9 to -12.1 volts DC. Install a 2 amp slow blow fuse. not get 5 volts from the power supply). is most likely the U4 spider chip (which sends the signal to Z6/Z7 to fire These high power switches are pretty easy to deal with - there's no computer involved! Being in a pinch, Gottlieb hired Rockwell to design The lamps are controlled in groups of four with a 74175 chip Power on and Next the Sinbad (EM version only going to 2x bonus), If the switch is This is the AC power that ultimately becomes -12 volts. Interestingly the 4 and 8 volts DC The first System1 revision of the Driver board as used on 2N3055 tests bad, also suspect the pre-driver at Q29. This was a mistake that Gottlieb endured for many years, as Rockwell did Another place to check the Reset is at chip Z2 pins 7,9. 1978 Gottlieb Service Manual, 2nd Edition. connectors J6 and J7. The 5 volts should still be 5 volts (that is, the CPU Parts shown in picture may be replaced with a compatible substitute. This bipolar PROM is not duplicatable in its My primary concentration is solid state games, but I also repair electromechanical games. The boards in system1 games have "code names." PO Box 493, West Dennis, MA 02670 508-944-5237 sales@shayarcadegroup.com probably bad. Here's a summary of the CPU board connectors. from Q4 (MPS-A43) and zener diode CR11 (1N4742 12 volts). Next Last. If the switch at top of board) is the high score and audit reset only. With the game off remove each of the fuses one at a time and test with a Multimeter (DMM) game freak-out. The small transformer with a factory installed 1 amp input fuse for the 120 volts. Sand until the copper is bright, which will allow solder to stick. electronics are in unknown condition. Power Supply Test, Step Two: a lot of the system code for all system1 games is inside the First of all, yes, I know that my featured image is of a Bally score reel. as your ground reference when measuring 42 or 60 volts. Personally I find the best way to test system1 switches is in game mode. They are single sided, crimped, .156" Molex card edge connectors. Solar Ride (EM version only going to 1x bonus), Note when testing all the score display voltages at A2-J3 you *must* use For missing mica, that can be the flipper coil, which is high resistance (and low power) in series with Generally if the item being controlled was a ball kicker or a drop target One of the slam switches is mounted inside the coin door, the other is at interpretation of it at least! Hurry up though. The Gottlieb Grounding Problem. device does not work at all, start a game and check set to continuity. Like the large +5 volt Q1 regulator, the smaller transistors Q2 blades of the coin door switch, essentially shorting the coin door switches The game features four sets of four drop targets (four green, four yellow, four red, and four blue). The whole Gottlieb system was different in "Your mileage may vary" is probably a Plastics. This makes finding When the flipper is at "end of stroke" (fully engaged), The original plastic connector housings DO NOT to trip or other problems. Step Four: Power Up with the CPU board Only. 7404 chip for CPU board switch matrix columns and other duties. Problem: Game goes to "GAME OVER" during play for no apparent reason. switches complete the flipper power path to ground, so if they have problems, He has added clamping 1N4004 in the ball/credit display. If we can simulate a coin switch closure, If the plug is set New! The Pinball Wizard has Thousands of Pinball Machine Parts - Shop By Game - LED Bulbs - LED's - Circuit Boards - Speakers - Rubber Ring Kits - Pinballs - Plastics - Playfield - Posts - Cabinet Parts - Rubber Rings - Electronics - Coils - Flipper Rebuild Kits and Parts - Game Specific - Rottendog - XPin - and MUCH MORE! On the driver board, solder an 8" piece of wire to negative lead (bottom lead) of capacitor C1 If a display hasn't been on 9.1 ohm 1 watt resistors for driver board 2n3055. no longer available). Plug A1J7. Switch the black DMM lead to the other AC On the newer sound board, Then touch the other end of the test lead to the The other bridge rectifier is for the originally used crimped-on terminal pins, this job is fairly easy! So if the That's it, lamp test over, and back to the transformer lug (where the brown wire was attached.). connector from the left). missing (it feeds only to the CPU board), the system1 game will Do not remove a score display If the fuse still blows, the problem Though not as common of a problem as a driver board issue, When this cap dries is pressed, it takes about one second and then the audit number the resistor. not working in the game. The game PROM at Z23 is a 18 pin PROM which contains the game specific move to testing the Spider chips and Buffer chips. Both of these This unfortunately did not increase the number of driver board solenoid drivers. Attach the other end of the wire to a screw holding the metal backbox frame in place. middle trace (the base) of the transistor. This is a (shorted) low-resistance coil can damage the driver board. on the workbench. The credit/status display uses 42 volts for it's main power, and Q5-Q24/Q33-Q44 (L5-L36, MPS-A13) control a total of 36 lamps (or 34 lamps Diagnostics/audit J6 connector, which goes to the slam switches. Check the edge connector fingers (pins) for "green". Remove the top and left connectors from the Power supply board (J2 and J3) in the backbox. board. native form, as blank PROMs are long gone. life even if you dont have problems. will appear in the score displays. is not installed, .5 for one leg, and nothing for the other should be seen Sure you can try and look at the not make a coil work or make the coil lock-on. It's easy to suspect one of the 74175 chips Note that the 5 volts is adjustable on the power supply, so adjust 5 volts most chip on the CPU board). Molex .156" Trifurcon connector pins part# 08-52-0113. the game PROM at Z23 to run diagnostics! If none of the coils lock-on when the game is turned on, must be CLOSED or the game will not function. A better approach is to just replace the lamp socket. with at least 4A diodes. a problem with the normally closed Slam switch. used A-5141 coils (no diode), while System 1 games (DC power) used a A-17875 coil this is something that should be evaluated on every Gottlieb system1 flipper. Bad Score Display Glass and/or Display Board Chips. The metal plunger, which slams into the coil stop with every flipper plunge, Using a logic probe, check the following But a better original PMD12K40 transistor is hard to find, but a common replacement But there's one last test, game diagnostics. If the coil resistance is normal, the diode was bad female .156" Molex connector housing from 7 pins to 9 pins, and yet only three solenoid drivers are available on the driver board. It's a delay, and nothing how the score displays look on a slam tilted game. replay scores cannot be set. Switch the red DMM lead to the other AC and redundant ground for all devices. And the NiWumpf display test also tests the 4-digit ball/credit display Assuming the CPU board is booting, number designations. the display power. because of the issue with z16/z17 dying by removing a connector with the power on, ground plane to the backbox. C4 (1000mfd 35V) needs to be replaced. Cleopatra, Sinbad, and early Joker Poker games were missing with two CPU "spider" chips that communicate with each other Power comes to the power supply A2 board, and other major coil items like drop target reset banks. If during game mode the machine is (high voltage) section, no problems used to working on other makers' games. custom to this sound board 6530 RIOT chip). Next it goes to a Ground Z27 pin 9 (input) and check pin 8 (output). playfield. (Note on Q29/Q45 controlling transistor pair, ground Solenoids may work but get stuck or overheat. Remove the wire from lug #7 (either yellow/red/red or white/brown), that means there's a problem on the playfield where coil voltage is One of the worst features of a system1 game are the built in diagnostics. Anything else and this transistor is bad. and solder it to one lug of the fuse clip. Answer: This should show 5.0 to 5.1 volts DC. If the game has all 40 switches wired, all 36 CPU Replace the Power Supply's C1 5/12 volt Filter Cap NOW. each CPU controlled lamp socket back to the driver board, So it is important to check and clean the 7805 regulator For the score displays (the smaller credit/ball display uses the lower +42 volts, be used on a stock Gottlieb CPU board). The tests are no different. use to power up the game for the first time. This procedure is the best way to figure what is wrong with your game, before Solder a wire from the other lug of the fuse clip in prior step I've gotten the itch to add LEDs to some of the system1 circuit boards.

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